Got my harness today and it appears to be very detailed and well built with good instructions, it came with a new headlight switch and new ignition switch which is nice. You can also get it for the same price (As ebayer) with free shipping at Summit. Looks like you can also save about $60.00 plus buying it from the ebayer. I have emailed or called them many times questioning them about certain things on the 69 kit and they have always emailed me back within an hour or two or answered my questions right then and there on the phone. I have heard nothing but good things about these kits and American Autowire has a STELLAR reputation for providing a great and reliable product and top notch customer service that will answer all your questions and assist in any problem you have. This will update your vehicle so you can use a higher amp SI alternator and it is actually cheaper then replacing every harness with the OEM type harnesses. I am actually getting the same kit for the 69 FB. This is a top of the line kit and it does in fact contain a new ignition switch for the original 67/68 position AND "Additionally the system comes with column mounted ignition switch connectors for adapting late model columns" So it actually can support both ignition switch positions in case you have a newer column with the ignition switch in the column. You could get a stroker kit from butler.This is actually the American Autowire classic update kit and you can find it on their website. Forged rods are paramount to keeping the bottom end together, In My Honest Opinion Rebuilding the engine would be a real good Idea. Raising compression will work for more power, as it enables a larger duration cam. Since you already have big valve heads, I suspect it may not be a problem, BUT if you change the heads, and put in a larger cam, you will want to check the valve/ piston clearance as well as checking the valve to cylinder wall clearance. But I see you already have large valve heads.ģ50 blocks, at least from around 70 up, are chamfered at the top of the bore to provide clearance for the valves and to improve flow as the chamfer "unshrouds" the valve. The 350 bore is a bit tiny and the bigger valves may hit the top of the cylinder bore when open as they are a bit to large. Well, the #13 heads have 2.11 1.777 intake and exhaust valves. Or is that a pointless attempt on an original engine with 120,000 miles? Would the engine withstand it, if only the camshaft and the cylinder heads as well as an Edelbrock Performer intake and an Edelbrock carburetor were exchanged and how much performance would result? Can you recommend a combination. I could get an old Pontiac # 13 cylinder head with 72cc, 2.11 / 1.77 or a head with 1.96 / 1.66. But I come from Germany and Pontiac engines are hard to come by here. There is also almost no information on 350 conversions. I know that a 400 would be better and the 350 are very unpopular. If 300 hp were possible I would be very satisfied. So not a racing engine with extreme consumption. It should be driven regularly in the city in summer. I would like to have more power cheaply without the suitability for everyday use suffers. The motor has 6X heads with 2.11 / 1.66 and 7.6 cr with 160 horsepower. I have an good running low power original 1976 Pontiac 350 2bbl with TH350 in my Firebird.
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